Here is an alternative way to do a DIY intervalometer, using some hardware hacking.
From comedyhunter of derbyphotos.co.uk.
Much better video than my clouds!
A few bits and pieces about photography
Here is an alternative way to do a DIY intervalometer, using some hardware hacking.
From comedyhunter of derbyphotos.co.uk.
Much better video than my clouds!
This is a summary of what Nikon DSLR models have been seen working, or not working, with the script.
XP | Vista / Win7 | |
D300 | Yes Yes |
Yes |
D40 | Yes | Yes (vista home, raw works)Yes (vista, raw ok) |
D80 | Yes | No Yes |
D50 | No Yes YesYes |
|
D200 / Fuji S5 | Almost YesYes YesYes |
PartialYes, Win7, jpg only |
D60 | Yes | Yes |
D70 / 70s – yes | Yes | Yes (win7 32bit) but no mode changeYes (vista)
Yes (vista, jpg only) |
D90 – yes /w issues | Yes | |
D3 – yes | ||
D2x – yes | ||
D100 — nobody has this working yet, I think (not sure) it may be impossible due to it not fully supporting ptpD1 – No | ||
D5000 | Yes | |
D3000 | YesYes | |
D80 – yes with 1.01 firmware, no with 1.11 firmware | No (64bit Win7) | |
D300s – yes | ||
D700 | yes | Yes (64bit Win7)Yes Win7 jpg only |
D3100 | Yes | |
D3200 | Yes | |
D3000 | Yes | |
D800/D800E | No | |
D7000 | Yes | |
D5100 | Yes | |
As you can see it is quite a mixed bag – I’d love to hear more input on what works and doesn’t work.
Update: This version is now obsolete,
Update: The With Bridge version provides almost instant image viewing in Adobe Bridge without any keypresses. If you use Bridge instead of Adobe Lightroom then download that version. I’ve also made a video to show how to use this script.
If you’ve been keeping up with the blogs of various big photography bloggers out there you’ll certainly have been seeing quite a bit about tethered shooting recently. Not that it is a revolution or anything, but it certainly is a help to be able to see your images immediately on a big screen — and that doesn’t just go for those with failing eye-sight but basically the images you see on the LCD at the back of your camera are only the jpg preview, not the RAW (should you be shooting raw).
Even if you are shooting jpg just having to view them on such a tiny screen really makes it hard to tell if they are sharp or perhaps shaded as you are hoping. Sucking them right into your PC seems just so logical.
If you are a Canon shooter then no issue – the software comes with the camera (so I’m told).
If you are a Nikon shooter then it gets a little more difficult. If you are a Mac user you could use Aperture, but for Windows you seem to be stuck with Nikon Camera Control Pro. That’s a $160 or so software which does a lot more than just tethered shooting, but is probably overkill if like me you are a hobbiest just messing around.
So in true geeky DIY mode I thought it can’t be that hard to write a script that sucks pictures out of a USB connected camera and saves them onto the PC. And after a little poking around I find that actually it’s true, it isn’t that hard.
The thing that makes it practical is that most of what you need is built into Windows, another chunk comes as a standard optional microsoft download, such that the glue you need to pull it all together is just a few lines of code.
Part 1 is Windows Image Acquisition (WIA) – that’s built in
Part 2 is WIA Automation Layer
– a free download from Microsoft for Windows XP SP2 or higher
Part 3 is a script to tie it all together – which I present here
This is now obsolete, use instead the free DIYPhotobits.com Camera Control 4.0
application.
Requirements:
Installation:
Well nothing really, just unzip it and put it in a folder anywhere — I suggest c:\program files\tethered but anywhere would do.
Usage:
Notes: